“Floored!”

Besides, great food and gorgeous sarees, a lesser known craft from Chettinad is the artisanal, eco-friendly handmade Athangudi tiles.

A short drive from Karaikudi will take you to Athangudi, a small village in Sivaganga district in Tamil Nadu, home to the majestic, lesser known Athangudi Palace or ‘Lakshmi Vilas’(locals know it as Periya Veedu, a cinema shooting location for several Tamil Movies). The palace is open for visitors and if you want to indulge undisturbed, in classical traditional Chettinad architecture and heritage, then this is the place to linger and soak in every detail.

At the entrance of the Palace, is a pillared veranda or ‘thinnai’, meant for receiving visitors. Heavy ornate wooden doors lead to the main hall. Italian marble, burma teak, stained glass and ornate wrought iron light up the courtyards and dining halls of this palace. Normally, upon entering a house, the floor catches the attention first as it signals the identity of the house. Likewise, the flooring in this vintage mansion is a fusion of intricately designed floral, geometric handmade tiles in earthy hues, all hand made in Athangudi.

Most of the 2000 artisan families living at Athangudi village are involved in the craft of making Terracotta tiles and wooden furniture. The local sand makes it possible for these workers to create the most artistic, strong, long lasting, colorful floor tiles for everyday use. No burning, heating, baking, just the local sand, cement, water and creativity does the trick. You have to see it to believe it!

In the earlier days, these artisans were patronized by the Nattukottai Chettiars of Chettinad, a mercantile community known for patronising art from across the world. The business community of affluent Chettiars would often travel overseas for commerce and with that exposure they cultivated a taste for art and luxury. On their return from trips to European and Asian countries, they would bring back tasteful décor like carpets, engraved furniture, stained glass, paintings and porcelain and the women of the Chettiar households would aesthetically incorporate these pieces in the interiors of their mansions. The patterned flooring and walls of these mansions would be made of intricately designed, bespoke handmade Athangudi tiles, designs inspired from the rich gifts bought from across the seas.

The process of making these tiles is complex. Each tile is individually made by hand. It begins with placing a cast iron stencilled frame of the desired design onto a glass plate (which is the same size as the tile). The pigment or dye is then laid upon the glass and swirled to create the required design. A mix of sand, clay and colored oxide in slurry form is then poured into the mould in three-fourth inch thickness and allowed to sun dry. After setting, the frame is removed and a layer of dry sand and cement is sprinkled on top, kept aside and cured in water for 8-12 days. Once dry, the glass plate slips off and rice husk is placed on top of the tiles to absorb remaining moisture as well as retain sheen. The tiles are further cured in water for a minimum of 21 days before they become ready for laying. These tiles made by natural material and by hand endure and can compete with any modern floorings that are available today.

You can witness the making process nearby to the palace either in a few shops or in the huts of these skilled craftsmen. Unfortunately, due to its relatively slow manufacturing process and the limited awareness, the demand for Athangudi tiles is low. One hopes for more awareness and creative usage of these unique tiles in order to promote a traditional and eco-friendly craft.

Should you visit, do remember to buy a tile or two for as less as Rs. 25/- to Rs. 50/- per tile, or better still the next time you are decorating interiors, commission a bespoke design with these craftsmen. You can be assured of great service and an artistic handmade product that endures.

Be elegant, buy sensible, stay rooted!