According to scientists, textile production is one of the most polluting of all industrial sectors, and is considered the second largest source of water pollution in the world after agriculture. According to the World Bank, 17-20% of industrial water pollution comes from synthetic textile dyes, and about 40% of synthetic dyes contain known carcinogens.
The use of natural dyes instead of synthetic dyes is traditional to all artisan communities and as old as textiles themselves. The origin of use of natural dyes is prehistoric. Stories suggest that when man found the juice of a berry stain his hands or the root of a plant leave a color on his fingers, natural dyes were discovered. The Egyptians used alizarin (a pigment extracted from madder) dyed linen during embalming and there is mention of the use of saffron in the Bible. The sacrifice of Indigo farmers in Bengal and their revolt against imperialism in the ‘Blue Mutiny’, is etched in Indian history forever.
Fast forward to current times, our reality is of consumption of mass produced, cheap, chemically dyed synthetic products that pollute the environment. This has led to the skill of natural dyeing being diluted and scare to find. The shrinking market due to the lack of awareness in consumers about the benefits of wearing natural dyes and the harmful effects of synthetic dyes is another challenge. Added to this is the notorious reputation of natural dyed products bleeding, fading and not lasting long enough.
Natural dyes are slightly towards the paler side of the colour palette and hence has a certain exclusive appeal. These are biodegradable, non-toxic and non-allergic. They do not cause any health hazards and hence they can be used easily without environmental concerns. Root, stem, flowers, leaves, bark of various plants, minerals, vegetables and even fungi and lichens are all sources of natural dyes, which are considered safe for the environment.
The process of natural dyeing is time consuming and requires great skill and technique. Cotton needs a complex series of pre-treatments before it absorbs any dye except indigo, with which it bonds naturally. Dyeing begins with the extraction of colouring matter from the vegetable dye material. In the second stage, the fibre to be dyed is mordanted, creating a bond between the colouring matter and the fibre. Choice of mordant and process of mordanting is extremely key to color fastness. The yarn or fabric to be dyed is well scoured to remove natural oils, pre-treated in various ways, then heated in the extracted dye at different temperatures depending on the dye material, usually for about 30-45 minutes, for the dye to take on the fibre for a long-lasting effect.
The process of natural color dyeing is of great specialism. The Masters in this business have learnt this over years of dedicated observation and practice. They know from experience the ins‐and‐outs of the smells and the textures and the dips that give the best results. Generally speaking, it is the number of dips and a special magic that determine the depth of colour!
The shades produced by natural dyes/colorants are usually soft, lustrous and soothing to the human eye and are known to have medicinal benefits. For example, turmeric, the brightest of naturally occurring yellow dyes is a powerful antiseptic which revitalizes the skin, while indigo gives a cooling sensation and is believed to have antibacterial, antifungal, and deodorizing properties. After a couple of washes, natural dyed clothes have a special earthy underglow, a special fragrance unlike any other. They possess a rich hue of warm, naturally oxidised tones that tell you their own unique story.
At Indriya, our ‘starfish thrower’ belief system motivates us to write about natural dyes and contribute towards the much needed awareness that needs to be created. We believe we have just begun our journey with one starfish thrown back into the Ocean. There are so many more to go.
This festive season, make a conscious choice, support a hand craft, make some space in your wardrobe for a a natural dyed, handmade product and do yourself and the environment some good.
Be Elegant, Buy sensible, Stay rooted!
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